Salento is the colourful heart of Colombia’s coffee region, but it’s the towering wax palms of the Cocora Valley that steal the show. We came here straight from Jardin and the contrast was immediate. Where Jardin felt quiet and traditional, Salento felt like a step into a misty, high-altitude wonderland.
The Cocora Valley loop is a 5 to 6 hour hike through cloud forest and wax palm groves, and it’s easily one of the best day hikes we did in South America. It’s also the kind of hike where preparation matters more than you think. We learned that the hard way. Here’s everything we’d tell a friend before they went.
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How to get to Salento from Jardin
There are two ways to get from Jardin to Salento, both of which require bus changes. You won’t find this bus trip on your regular booking platforms such as BusBud, but instead it’s a trip that you book through the local “travel agency” in Jardin that is also the bar counter of the local pub. Go figure.
The most direct route is a 4 hour bus from Jardin to Riosucio, followed by a 4.5 hour connection from Riosucio to Salento. The journey from Jardin to Riosucio follows winding Andean passes, which is scenic but recommended for strong stomachs only.
Leaving Jardin felt a bit like leaving a secret, but the road to Salento was a proper Colombian adventure. We were headed to Santa Rosa Hot Springs first, so we took the route that detoured via Manizales and Pereira.
Note: if this is your first foray into South America, we use the term “bus” loosely. These include Chiva buses, shared minivans, and sometimes some random person’s rickety old sedan.
| Destination | Journey length | Cost |
| Jardin to Manizales | 5.5 hours | 59,000 COP (15 USD) |
| Manizales to Pereira | 50 minutes | 13,000 COP (3 USD) |
| Pereira to Salento | 50 minutes | 8,000 COP (2 USD) |
| Jardin to Riosucio | 4 hours | 28,000 COP (7 USD) |
| Riosucio to Salento | 4.5 hours | 40,000 COP (10 USD) |
Hiking the Cocora Valley in Salento
So now that you’re here, what’s the best way to see the Cocora Valley? You can take a Willys Jeep from Salento’s main square to the trailhead. The return trip for a ride on the Willys Jeeps cost about 10,000 COP (2 USD) per person and are well worth the value given the hiking you’ll be doing.
We recommend the 5-6 hour counter-clockwise loop (use AllTrails for navigation), which takes you through jungle trails and suspension bridges before descending through the famous forest of 60-metre-tall Wax Palms for the most dramatic views.
Walking through the Cocora Valley feels like stepping onto a film set – it has a prehistoric, “Jurassic Park” vibe. We hit the trail at 8:00am to beat the afternoon mist. The hike starts with a steady climb through cloud forest, crossing several rickety suspension bridges. If you’re doing the full loop, be prepared for mud; we’re talking ankle-deep, “don’t wear your white sneakers” kind of mud.
Our accidental side quest
So, is the Cocora Valley hike difficult? Well it depends how you do it.
While the lower palm groves are accessible, the full loop involves steep climbs to over 3,400m elevation. Hikers should be prepared for rapid weather changes and physical exertion, as a “short stroll” can easily turn into a 6-to-8 hour trek through challenging Andean terrain.
In my corporate life, I’m all about spreadsheets and structure. In the Colombian Andes? Not so much. We set off for what we thought was a “quick four-hour loop” having skipped breakfast and carrying only a 600ml water bottle each, a snack-pack of Doritos, and a single Triángulo chocolate bar (iykyk).
Halfway up, we tagged along with some Italian hikers who told us about a finca (Finca de Argentino) that served agua de panela con queso (hot sugarcane water with cheese). In our hungry, delirious state, this sounded like a Michelin-star meal. We climbed 1,500m of elevation over five hours, fueled entirely by the dream of cheese and sugar water.
We finally hit the 3,500m only to find it bone-chillingly cold and firma firmly closed. No cheese, no sugar water – just two very cold, underprepared Australians standing in the mist with a bag of Doritos crumbs. It was a long, humbled hike back down, but it’s easily our favourite “fail” of the trip.
What to Pack for the Cocora Valley Hike
We had proper hiking boots for this one (thankfully, given our lack of preparation in every other department), and they made all the difference. Here’s what we’d recommend bringing:
- Footwear: Waterproof hiking boots are non-negotiable. The trail is muddy year-round and in sections it’s deep enough to swallow a regular sneaker whole. We saw people in trainers and they were having a miserable time. If you don’t have boots, you can rent rubber boots at the trailhead for around 10,000 COP (2 USD).
- Layers: Salento sits at about 1,900m and the trail climbs to over 3,400m. It can be warm and sunny at the bottom and genuinely cold at the top. Bring a light fleece or jumper you can tie around your waist, plus a rain jacket regardless of the forecast.
- Rain jacket: Even in the dry season, afternoon rain is common in the cloud forest. Pack a lightweight waterproof layer, no exceptions.
- Water: Bring at least 1.5 to 2 litres per person. Learn from our mistake. There are a couple of fincas along the route where you can buy drinks, but don’t count on them being open.
- Snacks: Real snacks. Not a single bag of Doritos and a chocolate bar for two people. Pack enough food for a full day, especially if you’re starting early and skipping breakfast.
- Sun protection: Sunscreen and a hat. The UV at altitude is strong, and the palm valley section is exposed.
- Cash: A small amount of Colombian pesos for the Acaime Hummingbird Sanctuary entry (20,000 COP / 5 USD) and any finca stops along the way. Card isn’t accepted on the trail.
Salento Finca El Ocaso Coffee Tour
A visit to Finca El Ocaso is essential for understanding Colombia’s heritage. To get there, take a Willys Jeep from the main square to the farm for 5,000 COP (1 USD) one-way. Their traditional tour costs about 60,000 COP (17 USD) and lasting approximately 1.5 hours. No reservations required.
We headed to Finca El Ocaso for their afternoon tour, and was the perfect recovery day activity following our Cocora Valley survival hike. It’s very hands-on; they actually give you a basket and send you into the rows to pick the ripe red cherries yourself. This is then followed by a professional tasting session overlooking the stunning Quindío valley.
It gave us a whole new appreciation for our morning flat white back home. The finca itself is gorgeous, featuring a classic colonial balcony where you can sit and sip while watching the clouds roll over the hills.
Where to Eat in Salento
Salento’s food scene is better than you’d expect for a small town. Trout is the local specialty, you’ll see trucha on nearly every menu, and the street food is excellent.
Deliciosas Empanadas Venezolanas
This tiny stall was the food highlight of our time in Salento, and honestly, of our five months backpacking South America. They make Venezuelan-style empanadas and they are incredible. We had the black bean and cheese empanada and it was one of those meals you keep talking about weeks later.
Fair warning: they sell out fast. We tried to visit twice in the early afternoon and missed out both times before finally catching them on our third attempt. There’s no real seating, just some benches outside the stall, but at about 6,000 COP (1.50 USD) per empanada, it’s worth the hunt. Get there early.
Street Food along Calle Real
Every afternoon and evening, vendors set up around the selling empanadas, arepas, and obleas (thin wafer sandwiches with arequipe). You can fill up on street food for under 15,000 COP (4 USD), which is what we did most evenings.
Budget tip: The menú del día (set lunch) is your best friend in Colombia. Most local restaurants offer a full meal with soup, rice, protein, and a juice for around 12,000 to 18,000 COP (3 to 5 USD). Look for the handwritten signs outside smaller restaurants off the main tourist strip.
Salento Cost Breakdown
Salento is one of the more affordable stops on the Colombian backpacker trail. Here’s roughly what we spent per day as a couple:
| Category | Daily Cost |
|---|---|
| Accommodation (Private room with ensuite) | 90,000 COP (25 USD) per night |
| Food (Mostly street food and local restaurants) | 50,000-70,000 COP (15-20 USD) |
| Cocora Valley Jeep | 10,000 COP (2 USD) per person return |
| Coffee Tour (Finca El Ocaso) | 60,000 COP (17 USD) per person |
| Willys Jeep to Finca | 5,000 COP (1 USD) per person one-way |
On a budget day with no tours, we were spending around 65 USD total as a couple. Add a coffee tour and you’re looking at closer to 90 to 100 USD for the day. By South American standards, Salento is very manageable.
Salento vs Jardin: Which Should You Visit?
We visited both and get asked this question a lot, so here’s the honest answer: if you have time, do both. They’re different enough to justify it.
Jardin is quieter, more traditional, and gets fewer tourists. It’s the kind of town where you sit in the plaza, drink a tinto, and watch the world go by. The cable car ride across the valley is a unique experience, and the birdwatching (Andean Cock-of-the-Rock) is world-class. If you want to slow down, Jardin is the place.
Salento is more lively and more set up for travellers. The Cocora Valley hike is the main draw and there’s nothing quite like it anywhere else in Colombia. The coffee tours are more polished, the food scene is bigger, and there’s more of a social backpacker atmosphere.
| Salento | Jardin | |
|---|---|---|
| Vibe | Touristy but fun, social | Quiet, traditional, local |
| Main attraction | Cocora Valley wax palms | Birdwatching, waterfalls, cable car |
| Coffee tours | Finca El Ocaso (polished, hands-on) | Smaller, more local fincas |
| Food scene | Bigger, more variety | Smaller, more traditional |
| Crowds | Busier, especially weekends | Much quieter |
| Getting there | Easy from Pereira or Armenia | 3 to 4 hours from Medellín |
If you’re short on time and have to pick one, Salento and the Cocora Valley probably edges it for the hike alone. But Jardin was one of our favourite places in all of Colombia precisely because it hasn’t been overrun yet. Read our full Jardin guide here.
You can also stop at the Santa Rosa Hot Springs between the two, which is what we did.
Where to Stay: Finding Your Base in Salento
For convenience, stay near the Calle Real or the Plaza de Bolívar to be close to restaurants and the Willys Jeep station. For a quieter experience, choose an eco-lodge or “finca” on the outskirts of town, which often offer incredible views of the surrounding mountains.
We stayed at closer to the main square to be near the action (and the coffee shops!). For a more budget option, we recommend checking out Casa La Eliana (31 USD / night), or for something more fancy, check out Salento Pequeño Hotel (88 USD / night).
Both are very close to the centre and being in town means you can easily roll out of bed and grab a spot on the first Jeep to the valley at 7:30 AM.
Best Time to Visit Salento and Travel Tips
The dry seasons from December to February and June to August offer the clearest skies for hiking the Cocora Valley. However, even in the “dry” season, afternoon rain is common in the cloud forest, so early morning starts are essential for the best views.
Salento’s weather is famously moody. One minute it’s brilliant sunshine, and the next you’re engulfed in a thick, eerie mist. Our biggest tip? Layers are your best friend. The temperature drops significantly once the sun goes down or when you’re high up in the valley. Also, try to avoid visiting on Colombian public holidays or Sundays if you hate crowds – the town becomes a massive party for locals, and the Willys Jeep queues can be enormous.
Cocora Valley FAQs
How long is the Cocora Valley loop hike?
The full counter-clockwise loop is approximately 14km and takes 5–6 hours. Factor in rest stops and you could easily stretch it to 7–8 hours, especially if the finca at the top is open (ours wasn’t).
How difficult is the Cocora Valley hike?
Moderate to hard. The lower palm groves are easy, but the full loop involves steep climbs to over 3,400m with significant elevation gain. Go slow if you’re not acclimatised.
What should I wear for the Cocora Valley hike?
Waterproof boots are essential — the mud can be ankle-deep year-round. Bring layers as the temperature drops sharply at altitude, and a rain jacket regardless of the forecast.
How do you get from Salento to Cocora Valley?
Take a Willys Jeep from Salento’s main plaza. They run regularly from around 7:30am and cost around 10,000 COP (approx. $2 USD) each way.
Is Salento worth visiting beyond Cocora Valley?
Yes. The Finca El Ocaso coffee tour is a genuine highlight, the town itself is beautiful, and the food scene is solid. Give it at least 2 full days.
When is the best time to visit Cocora Valley?
December–February and June–August are drier months, but morning mist is common year-round. Start your hike by 7:30–8am for the best conditions.
Final Thoughts
Salento lived up to the hype for us. While it’s certainly more “touristy” than Jardin, the sheer scale of the Cocora palms and the quality of the coffee tours make it a highlight of any Colombian trip. Just remember to pack your rain gear and a sense of adventure!
Have you tackled the Cocora mud or found a favourite coffee shop in Salento? We’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments below!
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