Fenghuang ancient town (凤凰古城, fèng huáng gǔ chéng) is a Qing Dynasty frontier town of wooden stilted houses on the Tuojiang River in western Hunan. Some people also call it Phoenix Ancient City. We stopped here on our way from Zhangjiajie to Dali, and one night was plenty. This guide covers what we did, what we paid, where to eat and where to stay.
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Is one night enough in Fenghuang ancient town?
Yes, one night is enough in Fenghuang ancient town, and we would not stretch it to two. The old streets are fun to explore, but the town works like Lijiang. Once you have walked the lanes and seen the bridge lit up, you have seen it. Our Lijiang Old Town guide explains the comparison.
Here is how our day went. First, we caught the train from Zhangjiajie, arrived in the afternoon and walked the old streets. That evening we crossed the bridge, watched the town light up and had our photos taken. Then we left for Dali the next morning.
The town is touristy, and the neon is bright. Still, the back alleys have locals going about their day. That mix made it a worthwhile stop on the way south, although not a destination on its own.
Planning the Zhangjiajie end first? Start with our Zhangjiajie National Forest Park guide. Our list of things near Zhangjiajie National Park also covers Fenghuang ancient city.
How to get to Fenghuang ancient town
Coming from Zhangjiajie
The easiest way from Zhangjiajie to Phoenix Ancient City is the high-speed train, which takes about an hour. We boarded at Zhangjiajie West Station (张家界西站, zhāng jiā jiè xī zhàn) and got off at Fenghuang Ancient City Railway Station (凤凰古城站, fèng huáng gǔ chéng zhàn). We paid 93 CNY (14 USD) for the ticket. Current listings show about 70-80 CNY (10-11 USD), so the fare has probably dropped since we went. Check Trip.com for today’s price before you book.
Never booked a Chinese train? Our guide to using the high-speed train in China walks through the process.
The ride is short, so Fenghuang slots neatly into an Avatar mountain itinerary. Going from Fenghuang ancient city to Zhangjiajie uses the same line in reverse. Because the train is so quick, a day trip is also possible, which we cover in the FAQ below. Searching for Fenghuang from Zhangjiajie? This is the route we took.
From the station to the old town
The station sits about 10 km from the old town. Order a Didi or catch a bus instead of walking. A taxi takes about 15 minutes to the edge of the old town. We also rode the Maglev, called the “Star of Phoenix”, which connects the high-speed rail station to the town area. It felt like a quirky thrill, especially for the views as it descends toward the river.
Other ways to reach Fenghuang ancient town
From Changsha, the train takes 2-2.5 hours and costs 207 CNY (30 USD) in our notes. You can also fly into Tongren Fenghuang Airport (TEN). Because we came by train from Zhangjiajie, that is the route we can vouch for.
Why we picked one night in Fenghuang ancient town
Our Zhangjiajie homestay host arranged the hotel for us. A friend of his runs it, and he set it up on top of a farewell lunch with his friends before we left. That made the logistics easy, because we only had to turn up.
Arriving in the afternoon worked well. We explored the streets until the lights came on. Then we saw the town lit up that evening and left the next morning for Dali.
A day trip is possible, but you would miss the lit-up evening. That is the main reason to sleep here. In daylight the town is pleasant, yet after dark it looks like the photos.
Best time to see Fenghuang ancient town
After dark
After dark, Fenghuang ancient town is at its most spectacular and its most crowded. The stilted houses light up in warm gold, and Hongqiao glows gold and blue. Neon signs reflect off the Tuojiang River as well. Also, the photo at the top of this guide shows how packed the riverside path gets.
Come for the light, but expect people. Still, a walk one or two streets back from the river is enough to lose most of them.
Early morning
Early morning, from about 6:30 am, is the quietest time in Fenghuang ancient town. Our notes say the river is misty, the stone lanes are close to empty and the day-tripper crowds have not arrived yet. Since we left for Dali that morning, we saw the town in this light only briefly. If you leave on a late train, this is a good use of your last hours.
Things to do in Fenghuang ancient town
Tuojiang River boat ride
A traditional wooden punting boat gives you a front-row view of the stilted houses (diaojiaolou, 吊脚楼) that you cannot get from the stone alleys. The houses lean out over the riverbanks, so it is peaceful to watch the town go about its day from the water. Boats leave from near the North Gate. The ride then takes about 20 minutes and passes under Hongqiao (Rainbow Bridge).
Prices from our notes are about 85 CNY (12 USD) for the daytime ride and 148 CNY (22 USD) for the night cruise. The night cruise costs more, but the neon reflections rippling across the river make it the better pick. Trip.com also lists an immersive Tuojiang River experience if you want to compare options before you arrive.
Hongqiao, the stepping stones and the back alleys
Hongqiao is the covered Rainbow Bridge at the centre of town. First, cross it in daylight to get your bearings, then return after dark to see it lit up. The Tuojiang stepping stones are the other famous crossing, and they draw crowds too.
Our favourite part was still the back alleys. They are narrow and lined with stone and lanterns, and they are much quieter than the riverfront. Wear comfortable walking shoes, because you will be on stone paving for hours.
Miao outfit photoshoot in Fenghuang ancient town
Why everyone does it
A costume photoshoot is the thing to do in Fenghuang ancient town. Chinese visitors love getting their photo taken, so a big industry of studios has grown up around it. Each one offers the full package: costume, makeup and a professional photographer.
I was the instigator here, and Ling went along with it. She appreciated the experience once it was done. All the photos of her in this section come from that evening.
The studios were very professional. Because so many girls were being photographed around us, we could tell they get a lot of practice. We arranged ours among the locals.
What the shoot cost and included
The shoot cost about 200 CNY (29 USD), which covered the outfit, makeup, hair and professional photos with some edits. You will also see hundreds of people doing it. It feels a bit extra, but photos against the stilted houses and the bridge are part of the China travel experience. Both the bridge shots and the costume shots came out great.
Because plenty of shopfronts around the old town run these photo studios, you will not have trouble finding one. To see how it works before you go, this Fenghuang costume and makeup experience on Trip.com is a handy reference. The shops also let you choose the look, with lots of costume styles and wigs to pick from. There is a men’s option too. It is less popular, though we did see the occasional man in costume alongside a partner.
Bargain for the price upfront and agree on what the package includes. Since many shops line the old town, you can shop around for the best deal. Dali was just as into costume photoshoots, so you can do it there too.
What the makeup is like
A word of warning about the makeup. Instead of matching your skin tone, the shops aim to make you as pale as possible. It can still feel more like a Halloween costume than a holiday shoot, and we put that down to long-standing East Asian beauty standards. Our travel motto is to trust the process, so we went along with it, reluctantly.
What to eat in Fenghuang ancient town
Food in Fenghuang is dominated by bold, spicy and sour Xiangxi (Western Hunan) flavours. If you are not great with spice, proceed with caution, because Hunan food is known for being hot. Three dishes are worth looking for. Blood Duck is duck cooked with glutinous rice and spices, and it is the signature dish. Sour Soup Fish is the second one to try, and handmade ginger candy is the third. For snacks, also look for shrimp cakes and miao baba (sticky rice cakes).
For a good meal, head to the restaurants near Hongqiao Middle Road. The prices are much better than at the spots directly overlooking the water.
Where to stay in Fenghuang ancient town
Do not stay right on the main river bar street if you want a quiet night, because the music pumps late into the night. Look for a guesthouse one or two alleys back instead. That way you will save about 100 CNY (15 USD) a night and actually get some sleep.
The hotel our Zhangjiajie homestay host arranged was very close to the main attractions, and we were grateful because we only had to turn up. Still, if we did the trip again, we would stay at the Fenghuang Jinshuian River View Hotel. That way we could look out over the river.
Trip.com also lists options at all price ranges, so it is worth comparing them there.
FAQ: Fenghuang ancient town
Is one night enough in Fenghuang ancient town?
Yes, one night is enough. The old streets are fun to explore, but once you have walked them and seen the bridge lit up, you have seen the town. We arrived in the afternoon and left the next morning for Dali, and that suited us.
Can you visit Fenghuang ancient town as a day trip from Zhangjiajie?
Yes, the train takes about an hour each way, so a day trip is possible. You would miss the lit-up evening, which is when the town looks its best. Because of that, we stayed one night.
How do you get from Fenghuang ancient city to Zhangjiajie?
Take the high-speed train from Fenghuang Ancient City Railway Station back to Zhangjiajie West Station. It is the same line as the outward trip and takes about an hour. Also allow time to reach the station, which is about 10 km from the old town.
How much is the train from Zhangjiajie to Fenghuang?
We paid 93 CNY (14 USD). Current listings show about 70-80 CNY (10-11 USD), so check Trip.com for today’s fare.
How much does a Miao outfit photoshoot cost?
We paid about 200 CNY (29 USD) for the outfit, makeup, hair and professional photos with some edits. Bargain upfront and agree on what is included, because there are many shops to compare.
Is there an entrance fee for Fenghuang ancient town?
Current guides say the old town streets are free to walk, with an optional bundled ticket for nine attractions listed at 128-148 CNY (18-21 USD). We did not check this ourselves, so confirm the current ticket rules before you go.
What should you wear in Fenghuang ancient town?
Wear comfortable walking shoes and leave the heels at home. The alleys are paved with stone, so the alley in our night photo above was wet.
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