Lijiang is the crown jewel of Yunnan Province, and Lijiang Old Town is its historic heart—a place where ancient Naxi culture meets the dramatic backdrop of the Himalayas. Known for being a UNESCO-listed masterpiece, its winding canals and proximity to the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain make it a must-see stop on any “Banana Pancake Trail” through Southern China.
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Getting to Lijiang Old Town: Trains, Planes, and Automobiles
To visit Lijiang Old Town, most travellers take a high-speed train from Kunming (3 hours) or Dali (2 hours). Lijiang Sanyi International Airport also handles domestic flights from major hubs. Once at the station or airport, local taxis or DiDi provide easy access to the main Lijiang Old Town gates.
Getting around China is surprisingly intuitive once you find your feet. For us Melburnians, the high-speed rail system feels like a futuristic version of the V/Line—clean, incredibly fast, and always on time. We highly recommend downloading the Trip.com app to manage your bookings on the official China Railway network in English.
| Transport Mode | From | Duration | Approx. Cost (AUD) |
|---|---|---|---|
| High-Speed Train | Kunming | 3–3.5 hours | $45 – $60 |
| High-Speed Train | Dali | 2 hours | $15 – $25 |
| Internal Flight | Shanghai | 3.5 hours | $180 – $300 |
| Local Taxi | Station to Town | 15 mins | $5 – $10 |
Lived Experience: When you arrive at the train station, ignore the “black taxi” drivers shouting in the foyer. Head straight to the official taxi rank or use the DiDi app. Also, remember that cars aren’t allowed inside Lijiang Old Town. Your taxi will drop you at one of the main gates, so be prepared for a short walk!
Beating Altitude Sickness in Lijiang
Lijiang sits at an elevation of 2,400 metres. While not extreme, some visitors exploring Lijiang Old Town may experience mild shortness of breath or headaches. To acclimate, stay hydrated, avoid alcohol on your first night, and consider spending a few days in Dali (1,900m) first to adjust gradually.
If you’ve spent your life at sea level in places like St Kilda or Glen Waverley, the air in Yunnan might feel a bit thin. It’s not quite “Mount Everest” levels of struggle, but you’ll definitely notice it when carrying your bags up a flight of stairs to your guesthouse. If you are entering the country under the new rules, make sure to read our China 30-Day Visa-Free Policy guide for the full lowdown on entry requirements.
Personal Trial: We actually stayed in Lijiang Old Town for 11 days. This was a deliberate move to get our “mountain lungs” ready before we tackled the Tiger Leaping Gorge trek. If you rush straight from the coast to the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (4,500m+), you’re asking for a migraine. Take it slow, drink more water than you think you need, and don’t be afraid to take a nap.
Navigating Lijiang Old Town (Dayan)
Lijiang Old Town (also known as Dayan) is a car-free labyrinth of cobblestone streets, wooden Naxi architecture, and flowing canals. Entry to the town itself is free, but you must pay a ¥50 “Old Town Protection Fee” to access specific landmarks like the Black Dragon Pool or the Mu Palace museum.
The “Island Test” check: Imagine a town where every street looks like a postcard and every corner leads to a hidden tea house. That’s Dayan. It’s easy to get lost, but that’s actually the best way to see it. Furthermore, keep an eye out for the water wheels—they usually mark the “centre” of the action.
| Landmark | Why Visit? | Cost (Approx AUD) |
|---|---|---|
| Sifang Streets | The heart of the town; great for people watching. | Free |
| Mu Palace | Incredible “Forbidden City” style architecture. | $12 |
| Lion Hill | The best panoramic views of the rooftops. | $8 |
| Wangu Pavilion | The highest point in the town. | Included in Lion Hill |
Aussie Perspective: The main squares can get quite “touristy”—think the crowds at Federation Square during a big event. Consequently, to find the soul of Lijiang Old Town, head to the outskirts or visit Baisha Village (a 20-minute bike ride away). Many travellers pair this with a Dali China travel guide itinerary, as the two towns offer very different perspectives on Yunnan life.
The Black Dragon Pool (Heilongtan)
The Black Dragon Pool is a stunning park located just north of Lijiang Old Town. It offers the famous “postcard view” of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain reflected in the water. Entrance is technically free, provided you can show proof that you have paid the ¥50 Lijiang Old Town Protection Fee.
This was one of our favourite spots for a morning stroll. If you’re a photographer, this is your Mecca. In addition, to get the best reflection of the mountain, you need to be there shortly after sunrise when the water is still and the light hits the peaks. If you’re planning to head further into the mountains after your stay, you’ll need to know how to get from Lijiang to Tiger Leaping Gorge to catch the local shared taxis.
Lived Experience Tip: Keep your “Protection Fee” receipt on your phone or in your wallet. We were checked at the gate, and if you don’t have it, you’ll have to pay on the spot. It’s valid for the duration of your stay, so it’s a one-time cost that covers multiple sights throughout Lijiang Old Town.
Where to Stay in Lijiang Old Town
For the most immersive experience, stay in a traditional guesthouse within Lijiang Old Town. These “Naxi” style buildings feature beautiful courtyards and wooden carvings. If you prefer peace and quiet, look for accommodation in Shuhe Ancient Town, which is smaller, cheaper, and less crowded than the main hub.
We chose a place called Xingzhe Yi Zhan International Youth Hostel and stayed for nearly two weeks. While “hostel” might sound basic, many in China offer high-end private rooms that feel like boutique hotels but at a fraction of the price. Before you head to the station to leave, make sure you know how to use the Metro in China to get around the larger transit hubs like Kunming or Shanghai easily.
| Area | Best For | Noise Level |
|---|---|---|
| Lijiang Old Town (Dayan) | Being in the middle of everything | High |
| Shuhe Ancient Town | Boutique stays and quiet cafes | Low |
| Baisha Village | True local culture and history | Very Low |
Pro-Tip: Cobblestones are the natural enemy of the suitcase. If your guesthouse is deep inside Lijiang Old Town, check if they offer a luggage pick-up service. Similarly, many hosts will meet you at the gate with a trolley or a motorized cart. If they don’t, be prepared for a workout!
Is Lijiang Old Town Still Worth It?
Some people say Lijiang Old Town is “too commercial,” but we disagree. Yes, there are many souvenir shops, but the history is real, the food is incredible (try the Yak hotpot!), and the surrounding nature is world-class. Overall, if you go in with an open mind and a pair of comfortable walking shoes, this will likely be the highlight of your China trip.
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